Rasmussen Auto Repair, Inc. 1023 North Maple Avenue  Fresno, CA 93702 (559) 251-0669     Fax (559) 251-7379
Welcome Home About Us Services Smog Info Tips/FAQ Location Hours Affiliations Contact Us We accept: Cash / Check  Visa  Mastercard  Discover  American Express Did you know that Rasmussen Auto Repair, Inc. can do Factory Service and Maintenence, Insurance Repairs, and Extended Warranties. Make sure to store our phone number in your cell phone, you never know when you will need us! (559) 251-0669	Have Realistic Expectations What is the difference between diagnostics and inspections? What is diagnostics and why is it not waived if I approve the necessary repair? I just had my car serviced because the "check engine light" came on and shortly after the repair the light is on again. Did my repair shop make a mistake? What should I know about the parts to be repaired or replaced? Regular preventive maintenance improves performance and extends the life of your engine What are the consequences of postponing maintenance? What maintenance guidelines should I follow to avoid costly repairs? Tires How do I know if I need a wheel alignment? How often should the hoses and belts be replaced in my car? Why should I replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor? How often should the engine antifreeze/coolant be flushed? My vehicle has noticeable or excessive smoke coming out the tail pipe, what does that mean?   Heading Off Problems: The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you'll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eyeballing the area around your vehicle for fluid spots, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even noticing unusual odors. Looks Like Trouble Smells Like Trouble Sounds Like Trouble Feels Like Trouble   TROUBLE SHOOTING: Car trouble doesn't always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems Alternator Battery Starter Muffler Tuneup   Buying a used car? Lower Auto Insurance Rates     Have Realistic Expectations Diagnosing a car's faults is not always straightforward. Sometimes there may be other problems which need repair that haven't been included in a written quote General servicing may not be enough to keep an older vehicle in good condition Expect your vehicle repair costs to increase with the age of your vehicle Delays may be caused by difficulty in obtaining parts.   Help The Repairer Find The Fault Intermittent faults are often difficult to identify. It's a good idea for you to take notes as the problem occurs, and bring these to your repairer. Once you're there, it's better for you to explain the signs and symptoms of the problem rather than asking for a specific repair. If possible, go for a test drive with the repairer to point out the problems. Ask his or her opinion of the problem with the vehicle.   What is the difference between diagnostics and inspections? A diagnostic service requires the use of various expensive and sophisticated testing equipment, which also requires specialized training. An inspection is a physical/visual check that does not require the use of sophisticated testing equipment.   What is diagnostics and why is it not waived if I approve the necessary repair? A diagnostic service is a process that a technician must perform to determine the root cause of the problem a customer is experiencing with their vehicle. This requires the use of various expensive and sophisticated testing equipment, which also requires specialized training. The labor time a technician uses during the diagnostic process is mutually exclusive of the labor time required to actually fix the problem. Diagnostics are also specific to the problem a customer is experiencing with their vehicle. Example, if a customer was experiencing a problem with the vehicle hesitating at a specific speed, the diagnostic service would not uncover a problem with the air conditioning not working.   I just had my car serviced because the "check engine light" came on and shortly after the repair the light is on again. Did my repair shop make a mistake? Maybe - maybe not. Because the check engine light / service engine soon light illuminates for many different reasons, i.e. {loose gas cap (computer sees a pressure loss in the fuel tank), or a bad sensor or a bad computer, or a vacuum leak, or a bad fuel pump, or a bad spark plug, or a plugged fuel filter or a broken, pinched or disconnected wire, etc.} the vehicle must be rechecked by the technician to determine the actual cause. Make sure your service advisor clearly documents on your repair ticket the actual codes and reasons found for the check engine light to come on. This way you will know if the cause for the light to come on again should be covered under the warranty of the original repair, or is it a completely new problem with the vehicle.   What should I know about the parts to be repaired or replaced? New Parts - These parts generally are made to original manufacturer's specifications, either by the vehicle manufacturer or an independent company. Your state may require repair shops to tell you if non-original equipment will be used in the repair. Prices and quality of these parts vary. Remanufactured, rebuilt and reconditioned Parts - These terms generally mean the same thing: parts have been restored to a sound working condition. Many manufacturers offer a warranty covering replacement parts, but not the labor to install them. Used Parts - These are used parts taken from another vehicle without alteration. Used parts may be the only source for certain items, though their reliability is seldom guaranteed.   Regular preventive maintenance improves performance and extends the life of your engine, suspension and power train preventing unexpected breakdowns and costly repairs. Oil, lube and filter should be changed every 3 months or 3,000 miles to prevent abnormal wear and tear on your engine -- one of the best things you can do for your car. Air Filter should be inspected regularly and changed as necessary to ensure optimal performance of your engine and improved fuel economy. Fuel injection system should be serviced every 15,000 miles to prevent carbon build-up and deposits that restrict fuel flow and degrade engine performance. Transmission fluid and filter should be replaced every 30,000 miles to ensure proper lubrication, preventing damage and ensuring smooth performance. Timing Belts should be changed every 60,000 miles or as recommended by the manufacturer of your vehicle to prevent unexpected failure that can leave you stranded. Maintenance tune-up should be performed as recommended by the manufacturer of your automobile to ensure longevity, optimal performance of your engine and improved fuel economy.   What are the consequences of postponing maintenance? Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated. Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific parts - or an entire system - can fail. Neglecting even simple routine maintenance, such as changing the oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also may invalidate your warranty.   What maintenance guidelines should I follow to avoid costly repairs? Follow the manufacturer's maintenance schedule in your owner's manual for your type of driving.   Tires: Maintaining the correct air pressure, rotating tires regularly and keeping your tires aligned and in balance improves safety moreover, it saves you money by extending the life of your tires. Correct air pressure in each tire ensures safe handling, and uniform wear improves fuel economy. Rotating tires every 6,000 miles ensures smooth ride, uniform tire wear and allows for inspection of brakes and suspension. Balancing tires corrects annoying vibrations and prevents irregular tire wear. Proper alignment ensures safe handling and prevents irregular tire wear -- should be checked whenever your car is pulling abnormally to the left or right.   How do I know if I need a wheel alignment? You should have the alignment checked if you are experiencing any of the following: Excessive or uneven tire wear (provided the tires have been inflated at the proper air pressure) Steering wheel pulls to the left or right. (again, first check air pressure in each tire) Steering feels loose or the car wanders on the road If the steering wheel is not centered If you feel any shaking, vibration or shimmy when driving   How often should the hoses and belts be replaced in my car? Always follow your manufacturers recommendations as outlined in the owner's manual. Typically, these items are replaced every 5 years or 50,000 miles. The best time to have these items checked and replaced is before the hot weather begins in the summertime.   Why should I replace the spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor? Spark plugs, wires, distributor caps and rotors break down and fail over time due to exposure to moisture, oil, grease and under hood temperatures that can reach as much as 550 to 700 degrees. Worn spark plugs cause higher voltage requirements, forcing the ignition module and coil to produce higher and higher voltages to overcome the resistance. The higher voltage breaks down the spark plug wires' insulation, creating an easier path to ground. This causes the ignition module and coil to produce even more voltage, creating even higher current temperatures within them. The higher than normal resistance weakens transistors and electrical insulation within modules, coils and computers, resulting in intermittent and premature failure. If your vehicle has over 60,000 miles and you haven't replaced your spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, you many experience a variety of drivability problems that are often difficult and very costly to diagnose and repair.   How often should the engine antifreeze/coolant be flushed? Always follow your manufacturers recommendations as outlined in the owner's manual. Typically, the cooling system should be flushed out at least once every two years or 30,000 miles. The best time is to have this service performed is in the spring or fall. A flush should never be done as a repair for an overheating problem. A coolant flush is recommended after the repair to clean the entire system and replace it with the proper anti foaming agents, rust inhibitors and water pump lubricants.   My vehicle has noticeable or excessive smoke coming out the tail pipe, what does that mean? If the smoke is gray or black in color typically means the vehicle is running rich (to much gasoline and not enough air). If you only experience this when the car is started it is typically an issue with the settings of the fuel injection system. If you get black smoke all the time, there are additional problems with the fuel injections system that needs to be checked. For example, oxygen sensors, map sensors, fuel injectors, fuel pressure regulators, air filter, etc. If this condition is allowed to continue, it could cause damage to the catalytic converter as well. If the smoke is blue in color it means the vehicle is burning oil. This can be caused by bad pistons and rings, damaged cylinder walls, or other internal engine damage. If the smoke is white in color it is a sign of a coolant leak or coolant being forced into the cylinders and being burned. Typical causes of white smoke are faulty head gaskets, a cracked head or broken cylinder wall.   Heading Off Problems: The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you'll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eyeballing the area around your vehicle for fluid spots, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even noticing unusual odors.   Looks Like Trouble: Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately. You can identify fluids by their color and consistency: Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange colors indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump or leaking radiator. A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the leak. A red oily spot indicates a transmission or power-steering fluid leak. A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It may be normal condensation from your vehicle's air conditioner, even during winter months due to the use of the defroster.   Smells Like Trouble: Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor: The smell of burned toast - a light, sharp odor - often signals an electrical short and burning insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle until the problem is diagnosed. The smell of rotten eggs - a continuous burning-sulphur smell - usually indicates a problem in the catalytic converter or other emission control devices. Don't delay diagnosis and repair. A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look for sign of a leak. The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying again. If the odor persists, chances are there's a leak in the fuel system - a potentially dangerous problem that needs immediate attention. Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop. Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on mountain roads. Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair. A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should be towed for repair.   Sounds Like Trouble: Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other sounds provide valuable clues about problems and maintenance needs. Here are some common noises and what they mean:   Squeal - A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to engine speed: Loose or worn power steering, fan or air conditioning belt.   Click - A slight sharp noise, related to either engine speed or vehicle speed: Loose wheel cover. Loose or bent fan blade. Stuck valve lifter or low engine oil.   Screech - A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound; usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion: Caused by brake wear indicators to let you know it's time for maintenance.   Rumble - a low-pitched rhythmic sound. Defective exhaust pipe, converter or muffler. Worn universal joint or other drive-line component.   Ping - A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related to engine speed: Usually caused by using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner's manual for the proper octane rating. If the problem persists, engine ignition timing could be at fault, or emission control system malfunction.   Heavy Knock - A rhythmic pounding sound: Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings. Internal Engine Failure Loose transmission torque converter.   Clunk - A random thumping sound: Loose shock absorber or other suspension component. Loose exhaust pipe or muffler.   Feels Like Trouble: Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor performance are symptoms you can feel. They almost always indicate a problem.   Steering Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering components, such as the idler or ball joint, can cause wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line. Pulling - the vehicle's tendency to steer to the left or right - can be caused by something as routine as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged or misaligned front end.   Ride and Handling Worn shock absorbers or other suspension components - or improper tire inflation - can contribute to poor cornering. While there is no hard and fast rule about when to replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more. Springs do not normally wear out and do not need replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage the springs. Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear steering and suspension components prematurely.   Brakes - Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if: The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied. The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained. You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking. The "brake" light on the instrument panel is lit.   Engine - The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair. Difficulty starting the engine. The "check engine" light on the instrument panel is lit. Rough idling or stalling. Poor acceleration. Poor fuel economy. Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes). Engine continues running after the key is removed.   Transmission - Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are: Abrupt or hard shifts between gears. Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse. Failure to shift during normal acceleration. Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle does not respond.   TROUBLE SHOOTING: Car trouble doesn't always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems: Alternator - Loose wiring can make your alternator appear defective. Your technician should check for loose connections and perform an output test before replacing the alternator. Battery - Corroded or loose battery terminals can make the battery appear dead or defective. Your technician should clean the terminals and test battery function before replacing the battery. Starter - What appears to be a defective starter actually may be a dead battery or poor connection. Ask your technician to check all connections and test the battery before repairing the starter. Muffler - a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe. Tuneup - The old-fashioned "tuneup" may not be relevant to your vehicle. Fewer parts, other than belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the recommendations in your owner's manual.   Buying a used car? Ask the seller   Why are they selling the vehicle breaks down often, bought a new car, too expensive, gas guzzler, etc.   Where has the mileage of the car been accrued? city driving, highway driving (best), off road   What repairs have been done & do they have invoices? Good Recordkeeping speaks volumes.   What accidents or damage has the vehicle had? Where and how was it repaired? Again, invoices that detail the repair is extremely helpful.   What type of gas have they used? You may not want to purchase a vehicle that requires the most expensive gas available to run properly.   Ask to test drive the vehicle. Be alert to unusual noises, jerking, pulling, & abnormal shifting.   Ask the seller to take the vehicle or let you take the vehicle to YOUR MECHANIC for a "check for purchase" inspection. Here you are able to become aware of *******************   Lower your auto insurance rates - If you are like most of us, you'd love to have your vehicle insurance costs lower. Here are a few tips that may increase your savings: Keep your driving record clean. Tickets & accidents can only drive up your costs. Get the most out of discounts. Most insurers give discounts for safety features like air bags, theft alarms, and anti-lock brakes, check to make sure you are getting all the discounts you deserve Towing & labor only pays if you can't drive away from an accident. If you are a member of an auto club, you don't need this coverage.